Do It Yourself (DIY)

Do It Yourself (D I Y)

Easy Measuring Tutorial

Hinged Panel Configuration:

1. How to measure

After receiving panels, check the exact physical making size of each panel and check off against manufacturer Bill of Materials Form. After confirming all measurements are correct then proceed to re-measure the openings to confirm that the given sizes of the opening are also correct. Use the Form to compare the sizing. (This may look like we are doing too much rechecking but it is the most important part of the set up). [If there is a difference see how the panel can be adjusted to fit or make a decision to abort. If you are to abort then take note of all site conditions so that on your return the job goes smoothly].

Click to Enlarge

Measure the difference between the overall tight width and the sum of each panel width allocated to that opening. That difference is allowed for the space tolerances such as hinges and the gap of 2 meeting panels. We allow 3 mm gap for most hinges and a 3mm gap where 2 panels meet.(eg: For 4 panels fitted into 1 opening the tolerances would be 3+3+3+3+3, or for a pair of panels it would be 3+3+3.

Note the site conditions, the structure to which you are to affix, look for a structural fixing if that is required. Tap the wall, reveal or ceiling to hear for hollows or grounds. Look for cracks, drummy tiles, rotting timber etc. This helps decide on the tools you need for the job and preempts any difficulties you may find too late during the install. Check to see if there are external beads set into the render or plasterboard on the external corners of the reveals and walls. This is a good indication of not only the quality of the building but should satisfy you that there is a good chance that the corner will be stable and you should not experience ‘blow out’.

Look for uneven surfaces, which may give a clue to what may lay underneath; look for steps in a wall only partly tiled (wainscot). Experience helps and soon you will be able to recognize the difference between Gib board (dry wall, plasterboard, gyprock) and Render; Hard set, Ready Wall etc.

Check that you have the correct clearance between window and shutter blade projection. Look at window locks. Extended door handles, winders and double hung sash windows that may affect the position or even the rethinking of the installation.

Check for level and plumb ness of the window or door at the reveal on both sides. This doesn’t tell you the opening is square it only proves it’s vertical property. You need to check the wall face for plumb ness as this determines if the panel will be balanced. That is if the wall was on a lean (outwards at the top and kicking in at the bottom) the panel will always want to fall open.

To check the square ness of the opening you need to measure diagonally, do a 3/4/5/ check or use a setsquare or ideally an angle finder. If the opening is not square the panels will show a light strike (an uneven gap of light, this is very obvious and somewhat off-putting to clients and they must be made aware of this possibility prior.

Finding a perfectly square opening is rare these days. In the absence of producing a new inset frame we are forced to work with what we are given ( as long as the client is made aware of the intolerances).

The sill (bottom base or ledge of the opening or the floor in the case of a door panel) must be level to achieve a professional install. The head is slightly less important as it is harder to read.

(1)If the sill is not level, mark the level position on each side reveal. It must be a 0mm on low side and __mm on the corrected side.

The Shutter panel is pre hinged in nearly all cases. Have a good look over the panel for signs of damage as well as getting to know the configuration of that panel.

A right handed panel means that it is hinged on the right set to open towards you(as if you were using your right hand to pull towards you and park the open door to the right of you)

The left pulls toward you and the hinges are on the left of that panel. Note the hinge knuckle is seen on the inside of the panel opening towards you, and therefore from that point of view you can easily distinguish a handed panel.

An easy way to recognize our panels is by the orientation of the fixed blade, which is always at the top, and it is slanted towards the inside of the room. There is a small lip on the face of the stile, which indicates the inside of the panel (facing in towards the room). The hinge knuckle would be seen from inside the room if it were to be a panel opening inwards.

2. Installation

The panel height (default value) measurement is minus 7mm from the overall tight measurement of the opening. Therefore the clearance on the bottom will be 4 mm to 5mm (depends on level of sill and head in opening). If there is a template provided (Domestic self install)

Carefully place the template aligned with the vertical corner edge of the reveal and ensuring that the template is bottomed out on the sill. The black packers indicate the space clearance between the installed panel and the sill. If a correction to make the sill read level was done in (1) above then place the bottom of the template on the sill and on the corrected mark opposite.

Mark and pre drill the 3 holes required for fixing hinge to reveal.

Repeat procedure for all bottom hinges. Unfix the loose pin hinges from their panel assembly and secure the part B hinge piece to the reveal.

Optional procedure1: Fix only the centre hinge screw to the reveal until the panel has been hung so as to make minor adjustments of panel.

Optional procedure2: If you were not too confident or inexperienced you may at this point (ensure that the panels are manageable or a door mate was used) uplift the panel into position and temporarily locate the loose pin to hold panel so as to assess the install so far. You could mark the top of panel clearance, mark the top hinge location and check the plumb ness of the panel physically.

Measure and mark the reveal for the distance of inside to inside of hinge.

Place the next set of templates in the top mount locations and repeat the procedure. The critical point here is to guarantee that the inside to inside of hinge measure as noted on the Manufacturers Configurator and the actual hinge-to-hinge measure are the same.

At this stage you are ready to ‘hang’ the panel. ) Uplift the panel into position and temporarily locate the loose pin to hold panel, reach up to locate the top hinge pin. Stand back and assess the alignment, all panels should be level with each other on the bottom. Drive in the loose pins if no further corrections are required.

I. Magnetic Latches

Place Magnetic Latch onto the head (default) or the sill at the location of the leading edge of the panel and secure by way of screws or construction adhesive.

Place the self-adhesive Magnetic Contact cover plate onto the bottom leading edge of the stile cover to be aligned with the Latch. Test that the latch contacts properly and is secure.

 

Measuring Steps

Step 1

What type of opening do you have?

No sill, No architrave opening No sill, No architrave 2 panels opening No sill, No architrave 3 panels opening
Opening
With sill Without architrave opening With sill Without architrave 
2 panels opening
With sill Without architrave 
3 panels opening
Opening
Without sill, With architrave opening Without sill, With architrave2 panels opening Without sill, With architrave3 panels opening
Opening

Step 2

Where would you like to mount your shutters? ( check our clearance table )

Mounting methods are:

INSIDE ( REVEAL ) MOUNT is where the panel will be fitted within the reveal of the window.

i.e.: the window casement or ledge that protrudes from inside your opening towards the outside.

It may be directly hinged to the reveal or mounted with a side moulding to compensate for width

difference or clearance problems.

Note: for inside reveal mounting. When mounting your shutters inside your reveal ensure that the

 style of the shutter blade you choose has the required clearance. View our clearance table here.

OUTSIDE ( FACE ) MOUNT is where the panels are hinged or secured to the wall of the Architrave (trim) of the opening;

 or if there is no trim at the junction of the window casement and the wall the panel would be secured to the wall.

This condition may require a mounting moulding attached to the wall to receive the panel. (further information)

Note: for outside reveal mounting. When mounting your shutters outside the reveal the shutter frame width will be

a maximum of 60mm wider than the inside width of your opening. The inside opening is determined by the clearance needed for the blades to clear the reveal.

 

Step 3

What is the width and height of the opening?

Measure the size of the opening

Firstly, measure the width then measure the height. Measure the opening with a steel measuring tape to the nearest 3mm .

Our panel size is slightly adjusted within your opening.

Measure the opening in three different places, (for an intended inside mount use the largest measurement and for an

outside mount we need the smallest measurement to allow for clearances. An opening width greater than 1050mm will require 2 or more panels.

Print out the working sheet and note all of your details down so that you can refer to them when making enquiries regarding colours, size, or price estimating.

Refer to our handy links and tools below

  1. PRINT OUT OUR HELPFUL WORKSHEET [ Download]
  2. OPEN OUR COMPLETE GLOSSARY OF WORDS [ Open]
  3. FAX BACK SHUTTER INQUIRY FORM

Step 4

Enter the size of your panel.

Place the panel size into your working sheet for printing. [doc 34.5kb | pdf 59.7kb ]

Look up the price of a panel this size online

  1. Enter the room name and the opening name: e.g.”bedroom eastside” “bathroom middle window”
  2. Select the opening type you have. This will help decide on the mounting hardware, mouldings etc.
  3. Select where you would like the mounting position for the shutters to be. (Inside or outside the face of the wall)
  4. Enter the width and then the height for this opening.
  5. Enter the number of panels that will fit into this opening. Remember, a panel max. is 1050mm.
  6. Select style of blade.
  7. Select the colour / finish of the Shutter.
  8. Finally add this to the inquiry cart.
  9. Repeat the above steps for any further openings.
  10. You can view your current selection in the pop up window and change it if need be.
  11. After you have selected all the correct shutters and sizes for your openings you can start to add optional items to the inquiry cart, such as hinges, mouldings etc. 

 

 

Measuring Tips

MEASURE THE OPENING

When measuring an opening, you need to measure in 3 different places for the width and again 3 places for the height. It may be that the opening is out of square or may have a bow in it.

Treat every opening as its own project. Do not assume two openings in a room are going to be the same. Check where the panel is going to be mounted.

Is there at least 28mm – in the reveal for the frame to fit and is there room for the blades to open? (Check clearance table) Is the architrave going to restrict the proper opening of the panel?

Is there a splayed ledge or are the reveals tapered? This may arise as a problem if you measure at the place of a wall wherein the recess is not the same, the panel may not fit. You may also encounter “hinge bind�? that is where the reveal is not square to the wall and the panel can’t park in its closed position, it will always bind.

Check for clearance of the panel as it is hinged and opens back against the wall. Will it encounter any skirting or architrave or hit another door swing?

Check if the structure into which you will fix is structural (a M² Aluminium panel weighs 13kg). Rendered walls are prone to blow out.

We recommend hinges placed at 600mm to 1000mm apart depending on the size of panel and placed 100mm from bottom and top of panel.

Is there a light switch or GPO behind where the shutter will swing.

Is the reveal square to the wall, is the wall plumb. Will hardware, hinges suit or do you need to get in a butt hinge or broad hinge.

Check clearances of windows, locks etc.

Check which direction blade is to face if clearance is a problem.

Clearances

Measure window glass to the inside of the panel mounting position and check again at the sides of the window pane if they protrude into the room, thus reducing the clearance at the sides.

The stile is 50 (or 60 / 90mm Cedar) wide therefore the clearance concern starts 50 or 60mm in or 90mm depending on door specification.

Hanging strip is 28mm wide; Z mould is 36mm deep etc. These moulds can assist to gain clearance if there are quirks or profiles on the window frame edge.

You may choose a straight mould 70 x 20, 70 x 25 or 60 x 20 etc. fixed on edge of reveal to gain clearance. This needs to be subtle and not to be too prominent, as it will appear to protrude from the edge or the architrave.

Z moulds may not always be suited to existing architraves etc. but they do cater better for expected difficulties such as gaps, intolerance, out of square etc. If you do a good job on scribing a side mould it is the best solution for out of square.

The Z mould and Architrave can be pre-hung to panel and ready hinged.

The hinges are ‘Hairline’ or non-mortise type.

The screws must fit flush neatly into the countersink.

The small part of the hinge flap is secured to the Shutter Panel. Hinge bind will occur if the screws are proud or if the reveal is not 90º to the wall or if it’s not 0º to the closed position of the panel itself You may in some cases shim the hinge or plane the door edge slightly back on a splay so that the door is actually closing past its closed location. This also helps if the wall is out of plumb (leaning towards you at the top). A slight chamfer plane to the hinge side edge is called ‘ back setting ‘.

To measure for a Top Mounted Slider Track or a Heavy Duty Bi Fold track a measurement (of 85 mm approximately) must be deducted from the overall height of the opening if a bottom guide track is used. If the Sliding panels are to slide past each other whilst both of the blades are in the open (horizontal) position, then refer to Clearance Diagram on wide configuration. Closed configuration (blades closed as they pass) is normally specified.

How do you plan getting the shutter panels into the room or upstairs? Apartment elevators pose one of the many obstacles as do such problems of storage of unfixed panels and finding a space to work or set up if it is a confined area.

FACTORY MOUNT HINGE CONDITIONS

  • Shutter Panels can be ordered Pre-Hung or Pre-Hinged as buy options.
  • Factory Pre-Hung Shutters may be hinged securely to a mounting strip, ‘Z’ molding or Architrave as a pre-assembled unit ready to install.
  • We need to know the handing of the panel. ie: which side the hinges are required and which way the panel swings (see door configurations)
  • The rule of thumb for knowing the hand of a door is to stand facing the opening on the side of the room (i.e.: imagine the shutter opening towards you and swinging to the left side of the frame). That is a left-handed door.
    The opposite applies to a Right Handed Door (i.e.: the shutter opening towards you and swinging to the right).
  • If the Shutter panel weighs less than 18kg (39lb) it will have 2 hinges mounted 100mm in from the top and bottom of panel. 
    Hinges are normally placed 100 mm from the bottom and 100 mm from the top of the panel. I.e.: The edge of the hinge is at the 100mm mark (not the centre line of the hinge)
  • >Than 18kg or taller than 1600mm will have 3 or more hinges. All hinges are non-mortise type, which do not require ‘ letting ‘ into the timber. Mortise or Butt Hinges are not available pre-hinged.
  • To Order A Pre-Hinged Or Pre-Hung Panel we require the following information:
    • The panel name or ID number so that it is easily identifiable
    • Left or Right Handed
    • If Pre-Hung – Specify type of molding to attach to your panel
    • Hinge type

Parliament Hinges or Wide Throw Hinges are mortised (let in) into the frame and the door. The purpose for these Hinges is to allow a Door to open all the way back on its axis. In fitting this type of hinge it should be noted that the hinge knuckle must protrude past the face of the Door when in its closed position and there may be some concern about the aesthetics, but it is for a purpose.

Light Strike the most common problem encountered on a job is the dimension differences between a square constructed panel and the existing opening on site. First you must understand that there has to be a small gap on all 4 edges of the panel once fitted to the opening. The standard gap is 3mm on the hinge side, 3 – 4mm top and bottom and 3mm on the closing edge. The gaps are required for the proper operation and clearances required of the panel. If the opening or frame is not square or has a dip in the head due to the initial weight or not straight edged the gap will increase beyond that allowed. It may be conceivable that a difference of say 6mm (¼”) or more could be the result. This looks offensive and none more so if there is direct light behind the panel, which will highlight the problem more.

Solutions:
  • A simple weather/light seal such as a Schlegel product, self-adhesive applied to all edges. There are wool pile and PVC type seals commonly used in the industry.
  • A timber stop bead 10mm x 10mm can be applied in the reveal
  • A hanging strip, Architrave or ‘Z’ mould can be installed and scribed to the out of plumb opening so that it appears true.

How to measure a Square Opening

Measure and Tolerances Formula

The opening of a window or door is almost never perfectly square.

Hinged Panels: Width – Shutters R Us use the formula of minus 3 mm on the Hinge side and minus 3mm on the abutting edge of the panel.

Note we have measured to the smallest square dimension therefore there may appear a gap beyond 3 mm due to the out of squareness.

Height – Our formula deducts 7 mm from the tightest height measurement. Note size dependant, panels will show a slight hinge drop on the open end panel which is industry acceptable if within tolerance.

Face fitted: panels by default are measured to allow for blade clearance then we add 100mm to that width and 100mm to the opening height. (Unless other dimensions are specified).

Sliders: Height – calculated as minus 35mm off the net height for bottom run track system and minus 60 mm if using a top hung system. All panels have a margin of plus 25mm per panel for the overlap of panel width.

Bi fold: Height – shutter panels are calculated as minus 85mm from ceiling to finished floor level (FFL). Note there will appear a light gap between the panel and the top track. There is an allowance of approximately 18mm at the pivot end of an opening and minus 3mm at the free end of the width of the opening to allow for a Bi fold to operate.

 

Shutter Sizing & Limitations

Operable blade sets

Typically the blades are grouped in approximately 8 operable blades per set e.g. there may be up to 3 sets of blades in a 2100 high door, which can open independent of each other set. This is a great advantage for maintaining privacy yet still allowing selective airflow. The grouping is determined at the factory and there is a charge added for more than one grouping per panel.

Maximum width of standard shutter frame is 800mm to 1000mm refer to panel sizing. Our SHUTTERGARD Aluminium Shutter design is able to span wider distances and is subject to load test requirements per project.

Architrave or Z molding is offered as an attractive enhancement to ‘frame your opening and accommodate any discrepancies in the building beyond the control of the installation design.

Standard frame stiles are 50mm, (60mm and 90mm Timber) wide. These stiles can accommodate optional locks to secure each set of panels for security areas or exterior doors.

French Doors

Door Hardware may interfere with a Shutter Panel mounted directly adjacent to the French door. The solution may be to manufacture a Custom Shutter, which is decoratively blanked at the Door handle location so that the blades are operable when the two panels align in the closed position. Or the simplest way is to add a timber molding which may give you the clearance you need.

Sliding Doors

Consider the layout of your existing or planned Shutter installation so that the Shutters do not interfere with the sliding doors operation. It may be that the Shutters will be mounted on sliding tracks adjacent to the existing doors. How will both sets operate? They may require a plant on molding to the frame of the opening to gain clearance or need to be removable if it is a compact apartment. Consider an offset of the new track installation so that fingers or blades in the open position do not foul when sliding a panel. A good solution is to look at a Bi fold system, which will provide all options in one. The ceiling to which you will affix must be level and structural to carry a top hung system.

Window cranks

Measure the depth of the reveal or window casement and note if there is a window winder or crank handle, which may interfere with the operation of the shutter blades. The crank may be able to be repositioned upwards to minimize its projection or obstruction.

Arches and Hi-lights

Most of these installations require templates and exact measuring, as they are usually custom fitted to each opening.

Bay or Corner Windows

Usually a Bay window consists of 3 to 5 windows within an opening accented 135 Degrees or so. If Shutter Panels are to be installed into Bay window, mullions may be required at the change of direction shaped to a splay to receive each of the opposing panels especially so if the panels are to be traditionally hinged. Pivot hinges top and bottom mounted may be a solution to obviating the need for mullions